A SERIOUS MAN

With A SERIOUS MAN, two serious men, Joel & Ethan Coen, have made one of the most somber — and hysterical—films of the year, putting their stamp on the midcentury midwest as successfully as they did on North Dakota in FARGO. The perfect cast is led by stage actor Michael Stuhlbarg as Larry Gopnik, a Jewish physics professor who can master equations but not life’s predicaments: a wayward wife who wants a divorce; a daughter who wants a nose job; a son who is running from a bully; and a broth­er who is running from responsibility. Gopnik is tormented by a bill collector, an anony­mous letter-writer, and a student threatening a lawsuit, and he’s hemmed in by his neigh­bors — an anti-semite on one side and a temptress on the other. The tale starts in a blizzard and ends with a tornado. In between, there is magical realism, the Jeffer­son Airplane, and rabbis with questions but no answers. More than a modern-day Job, Gopnik is an Everyman for the ages. Revealed below, a few serious men who are more about joy than Job.

One of these men is musician, teacher, writer, and Latin food expert, BILL ESPARZA (http://streetgourmetla.blog spot.com), who wanted to counteract the bad press his beloved Mexico, and especial­ly Tijuana, has been getting, which he feels is overblown and distorted. So he gathered some local food folk and led them on an eye-opening journey beyond the Mexican border. Few of us might have ventured there on our own but, with the chance to visit every taco stand, gourmet restaurant, and insider’s secret eatery, we followed our fear­less leader, leaving in anticipation and return­ing awestruck. TJ is the home of Baja Med, a fusion of Asian, Mediterranean and Mexican influences, created by former attorney Miguel Ángél Guerrero Yaguës and found at his La Querencia (carpaccio of beets and blue cheese, sopes with abalone chorizo, duck tacos) and Villa Saverios (short ribs with fig mole, lamb shank tacos). Other high­lights: Cien Años (baby octopus, salmon and mango ceviche, clam shooters); La Diferen­cia (cactus skewers, black bean dip with cotija cheese, cheese-stuffed corn cakes); Spanish paella and whole suckling pig at Restaurante Espanol Lorca; Cheripan’s Argentina-style sweetbreads, gaucho steak, tamarind martinis and sugar-free chocolate gelato; and L'Abricot French bistro and patisserie by a Paris-trained chef. As with any travel, some caution is in order, although we encountered only friendly peo­ple and great food. Influences from our sojourn can be found on the menus at BORDER GRILL (1445 Fourth St., SM; 310-451-1655); GUELAGUETZA (the origi­nal is at 3337½ W. Eighth St., L.A.; 213­427-0779); and LA CASITA MEXICANA (4030 E. Gage Ave., Bell; 323-773-1898), whose chefs were part of the group. More info: www.tijuanaonline.org. Thanks to the Crossborder Agency, Tijuana Tourism Board, and Tijuana Restaurant Association. Note: For more details, see October La Opinion Travel Section.

Fifteen years is seriously long to wait, but it was worthwhile because now John Sed­lar is back behind the stoves, this time at RIVERA (1050 S. Flower St., on the ground floor of the Met Lofts, Downtown; 213-749­1460), just a short walk to Staples Center. When he opened Saint Estephe in a South Bay strip mall, Southwest cuisine was virtu­ally unknown in these parts. That didn’t keep every self-respecting foodie from dri­ving down to his storefront showcase for his personal mix of fancy French and rustic southwest dishes. He moved closer with Bikini and Abiquiu, gradually revealing his Mexican roots and his passion for tamales, which he took to the stratosphere and even to their own museum. In his latest sur­roundings he is more casual but no less serious, hand grinding maize for tortillas, which he embeds with delicate flowers and herbs, and sides them with avocado butter. When we stopped by we were nursing a case of jetlag and though the details of our meal went by in a blur those tortillas still haunt our dreams. As talented an artist as he is a chef, Sedlar always considers appearance as much as taste and, in another dish, he makes Serrano ham and Idiazabal cheese-stuffed quesadillas with both blue and white corn tortillas, engaging the eyes as much as the tastebuds. The signature dish here is probably the duck enfrijolada, tortillas with black beans over duck confit, sauced with red wine and cas­cabel chile but he hasn’t given up on his love of tamales, including a winner stuffed with short ribs and mushrooms.  The wine list spans Latin America and there is an ample selection of tequilas. In another decade or so, some of those bottles of tequila will be wearing Sedlar’s own label. We predict that Rivera will still be going gangbusters by then.

Steven Arroyo is not afraid to try new things. He gave Neal Fraser and Brooke Williamson their starts at Boxer, which is now the jam-packed Spanish tapas joint, Cobras and Matadors. He recently turned the adjacent wine shop into POTATO CHIPS (7613 Beverly Blvd., MidCity; 323­931-0911), which is marked by a vintage sign of the same name. No one but a seri­ous guy would devise gourmet versions of five classic subs (Italian: soprasata, capico­la, salami, and mortadella; Rosemary Ham with butter and radishes; oven-baked Turkey; Prosciutto with with buffalo moz­zarella; Tuna) and a few specials (the light and luscious meatball rules!). Giant custom-baked rolls hold ample portions of quality ingredients, down to the vinegar and herb aioli and cornichons. Chef Jared Simons rolls out tacos starting at 6PM, before doing the night shift next door. Drink up the most­ly-Spanish wines, the Boddingtons, Bohemia, and other beers, the Italian lemon­ade. Eat in or grab ‘n’ go but note, those chips will set you back a buck.

Chef Casey Lane is so serious that when he came down from Portland, he brought along a dedicated crew, all of whom had worked in one of the town’s top restos. They took over Conny Andersson’s too short-lived AK Restaurant and turned it into TASTING KITCHEN (1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; 310-392-6644), “a new con­cept in restaurants.” You may not be able to replicate what we had for dinner on the enclosed patio because the handwritten menu changes nightly, each marked by a number on the paper cover. Of the half dozen seafood starters, based on oysters, shellfish and such, the urchin had already sold out so we settled, on the advice of our waiter/guide, on a lovely plate of cod with potatoes, chorizo, piquillo peppers and saf­fron. Of ten choices, including pate, quail, steak, lamp and pork, we were advised to try the rilettes, a heaping mixture of pork and pickles on toast and, again happily, we did. We couldn’t resist the sweet corn on the cob swimming in anchovy garlic butter, or the slab of toast piled high with creamy fromage blanc, fresh figs and crunchy wal­nuts, a delicious combination that would work well as a hearty dessert. Golden tortel­li were stuffed with ricotta and served with chanterelles and corn, an opulent combina­tion. Dessert was a simple ice cream sand­wich with chocolate sauce. The reasonably priced drinks menu is small and interesting, with special concoctions, cocktails, artisan beers, and everything from a $200 bottle of 1975 Sangiovese to Mexican Coke. The original plans called for the place to shut down and retool but, based on the clamor­ing for Lane’s mix of French, Italian, Span­ish and Moroccan dishes, made with Black Steel fingerlings, ceci beans, pimenton ahumado, argan oil, house smoked proscuitto and bacon, and hand made pas­tas, don’t expect them to close down for any reason any time soon, especially since they only open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday.

Sunday, October 11, 2 PM - 7 PM, A TASTE OF ABBOT KINNEY benefits Inside Out Community Arts. Tickets $60 for food, wine tastings, spirits and special store dis­counts. Participating restaurants include LILLY’S; PRIMITIVO; EQUATOR BOOKS; LEMONADE; JOE’S; TASTING KITCHEN; WABI-SABI; 3 SQUARE; MARLA’S; BEECHWOOD; JIN; INTELLIGENTSIA, and during Vietnamese Week, October 19 – 24, Sofitel hotels in Los Angeles, Chicago and New York celebrate the launch of Sofitel Leg­end and the debut of its premier property, SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI, with a special dinner menu at its restaurants. Offerings include Saigonese chicken salad, hue prawns on lemongrass, deep-friend nem and beef cooked three ways – an old Viet­namese recipe originally used to cook tiger meat. There will be banana crème brulee and special cocktails as well. Reserve in advance at OpenTable.com. 

THE PALM (www.thepalm.com) has a new happy hour menu featuring Prime Bites at Prime Time (Mon - Fri from 5pm to 7pm and after 9pm). Just $3.50 a plate gets you Kobe Beef Sliders, Filet Mignon Capri Sandwiches, Mini Broiled Crab Cakes, Calamari Fritti and more. There’s a raw bar with Oysters on the Half Shell ($1) and Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail ($2), flat screen TVs, music, and more than 15 classic and signature cocktails at regular prices, an award-winning wine list, premium spirits, and domestic and imported beers. And did we mention the not-to-be-missed choco­late cake?

Prince Ludwig I threw a party in 1810 to celebrate his marriage to Princess Therese, and 200 years later it is the world's largest celebration, Octoberfest.

To celebrate, through October, Hans Röckenwagner and Wolfgang Gussmack, of 3 SQUARE (1121 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; 310-399-6504) are offering a special menu of authentic German fare and German beer on tap (they built a mobile beer tap just for the occasion!): Giant hot pretzel with mustard (5); Lentil soup with wienerle (6.95); Goulash with spaetzle (14.50); Kassler ribs with sauerkraut, mashed potatoes & bier-sauce (12.95); Grilled sausages with mashed potatoes, cabbage salad & mus­tard (12.95). They’ve built their own tap for the Spaten Pilsner and Koestritzer Lager, which is darker and richer than usual and costs the same as you’d pay in Germany. Prost!

NEW CLASSIC FAMILY DINNERS by Mark Peel with Martha Rose Shulman (Wiley $34.95). Even after years of success, Peel is as serious and dedicated a chef/owner as the day he opened the doors to Campanile. A regular fixture at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, along with his wonderful recipes, this book has savvy tips on shopping and menu planning. Those who can get to Campanile’s rustic dinners, grilled cheese nights, weekend brunches, and renowned Monday night Family Dinners ($45) will still pore over the pages of this book, salivating over the southern fried chicken drumsticks; beef, pork and chicken meatballs; cucumber yogurt soup; and wild mushroom risotto. Detailed instructions are intended to show everyone from novices to budding Julia Childs how to prepare them successfully in their home kitchens.