DRIVE

DRIVE’s Danish director, Nicolas Winding Refn (Pusher, Bronson, Valhalla Rising) propels his winning streak with Hossein Amini’s screenplay based on James Sallis’s book. In the opening sequence, topping off a warehouse heist, an unnamed and anonymous movie stunt man (Ryan Gosling) shows off his real talent — driving the getaway car with the skill of a speed racer. Into his isolated life comes Irene (Carey Mulligan), a sweet single mom with a jailed husband (Oscar Isaac) who attempts to go straight after he is released. When things go awry over an unpaid debt and a botched robbery, garage owner Shannon (Bryan Cranston), vile criminal Nino (Ron Perlman), and deceptively sincere money man Bernie (Albert Brooks, astonishing) prove more adept at piling up bodies than at retrieving the money piled up in the trunk of Gosling’s car. For those who prefer a dining get- away, these spots will rev your engine, so buckle up and Vroom! Vroom! Vroom!

Pizza, the world’s most popular food, originated in Naples, Italy, and so did the family of Peter (a talented painter) and Ernest (the chef) Lepore. Californians know these brothers as the owners of BRAVO PIZZERIA & DELI (2400 Main St, SM; 310-392-7466)  — popular for their authenticity, consistency, patio, prices, delivery, and weekly specials — and before that, Bravo Cucina on the Promenade. But their culinary pedigree reaches all the way back to 1892 when Enrico Scoppa and their great grand- uncle, Antonio Ferrara, an opera impresario and Enrico Caruso’s manager, opened Caffé A. Ferrara in lower Manhattan. This was the “Gay Nineties” and soon the little café was attracting opera lovers who, “after a night of Verdi or Puccini, could relax, play a Neapolitan card game called ‘scopa,’ and drink a cup or two of espresso.” Caruso was a fan, especially of the cookies and cakes. That’s in part because, by the 1929 Depression, to avoid waste, they were baking small batches two, three, and sometimes four times a day, earning them a reputation for freshness that they maintain to this day.

But freshness isn’t all that makes them special. The food is delicious, of course, but the belief that “whatever you feel goes into your food and becomes part of it” makes them as conscious of their feelings as their ingredients. Their father died when they were young but “we’ve shared a room since Ernesto left the womb,” says Peter, which makes them especially close. They grew up eating Grandma Eleanor’s cooking, which was how she expressed her love, and it left its mark. FERRARA BAKERY & CAFÉ (195 Grand St, NYC; 212-226-6150) has grown into a huge enterprise, one of the oldest family-owned businesses in America, but their mission is still to be a source of love and goodness making them the original symbol of “eat pray love.” Order doubles of their famous Rainbow and Pignoli Cookies; Cannoli & Sfogliatel pastries; Chocolate Truffle Cake; Tiramisu; Italian Cheesecake and New York Cheesecake at www.ferraracafe.com. Don’t even con- sider sharing. Won’t happen.

We agree with Cesare Casella, dean of the Italian Culinary Academy, that some Italian products simply can't be reproduced in the U.S., including mozzarella di bufala. Lucky for us that three times a week the owner of OBIKA MOZZARELLA BAR (Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd, 310-556-2452; Beverly Center, 8500 Beverly Blvd, LA 310-652-2088) brings in DOP buffalo milk mozzarella. It’s marvelous with pasta or with cured meats such as Prosciutto Crudo San Daniele DOP, Felino Salame, Pistachio Mortadella, Smoked Speck, Ham or Culatello. Cold Basil and Organic Tomato Soup with Stracciatella di Burrata and Crostini tastes just-picked. The tuna is cured in olive oil, not water, terrific on its own. Add diced mozzarella to a salad, or enjoy a Tasting of Grilled Seasonal Organic Vegetables, or three Pestos: Basil, Black Olives, Sundried Tomatoes, or Smoked Speck from Trentino Alto Adige. Wines are rare finds from small Italian producers, and there are Italian beers and Obikà’s signature cocktails and nonalcoholic drinks. This is not the Old Country — it’s cutting edge Italy and was a partial inspiration for Nancy Silverton’s Osteria Mozza. 

The culmination of those instincts can be found in Silverton’s THE MOZZA COOK- BOOK (Knopf $35), forward by Mario Batali, which has the special appeal of being one you might actually cook from. There are plenty of dishes suitable for simple meals. The color photos will make you drool and, if you’ve wondered why her chopped salad tastes so much better than most, or how she does that pizza dough, the answers are here. She’s also uncommonly generous with well- deserved praise for sous chef Matt Molina, general manager David Rosoff and pastry chef, Dahlia Narvaez. Stop at MOZZA2GO (6610 Melrose Ave., L.A.; 323-297-1133) to take out pizzas, sandwiches, daily lasagna, antipasti, salads, and dolci or the tiny SCUOLA DI PIZZA from its “home-style kitchen.” Sign up for the newsletter to get word of: Pizzeria Mozza Specials; Osteria Mozza Events; Mozza2Go's Weekly Specials; Wine Classes; Pizza Classes, and Mangiare In Famiglia family-style dinners.

A partner at Mozza, with Silverton, Mario Batali, and her son, Joe, Lidia Bastianich, the first lady of Italian cui- sine, prepared a special summer series with Chef Michael Reardon of COAST BEACH CAFÉ AND BAR AT SHUTTERS ON THE BEACH (One Pico. Santa Monica; 310- 587-1707), which served wines exclusively from the Bastianich Winery, La Mozza and Brandini. You may have missed the dinners but you can create something like them with LIDIA’S ITALY IN AMERICA (Knopf, $35), the companion guide to her new public TV series, a road trip through Italian-American cooking in the U.S. today. New dishes created from old traditions include Baltimore Crab Cakes, Chicago Deep-Dish Pizza, Eggplant Parmigiana from the Bronx, and Prickly Pear Granita from California. As for the other side, Americans in Italy, THE VENICE EXPERIMENT: A Year of Trial and Error Living Abroad by Barry Frangipane with Ben Robbins was hard to read but that was only because I couldn’t pull it away from my husband. The author and his wife fulfilled a lifelong dream and share their adventure in delightful detail, from taking language lessons to learning which restaurants had separate rates for locals. It’s a practical and humorous blueprint for the average person who longs to discover unfamiliar parts of the world before they leave it. $14.95 at Amazon.com

The OSPITALITÀ ITALIANA SEAL (Q), reserved for the finest hotels and restaurants in Italy, has made it to our shores, honoring 31 local and three San Francisco restaurants. One of these is MARINO RISTORANTE (6001Melrose Ave, Hwd; 323-466-8812), home to the traditional FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES, which they have served for lunch and dinner on Christmas Eve for over a quarter century. Endless antipasti include dishes such as vongole arreganate, calamari ripieni, insalata di rinforzo, insalata di baccala' and much more, and roasted chestnuts are always part of the dessert course. The service is obliging and friendly but if you prefer to eat in your own home, they'll pack it to go. After all, homemade doesn’t have to mean it didn’t come from your kitchen. In a Q blind tasting at Westwood’s Italian Cultural Center, top honors went to AGO, DA PASQUALE and VALENTINO, while Honorable Mentions went to IL MORO, OSTERIA LATINI and CAFFE’ PINGUINI. Eric Boardman hosted. Judges Anthony Dias Blue; Susan Irby; Mona Day; and yours truly agreed there’s a bit of Italy lurking in every foodie.

When partners Jeff Vespa  (co- founder   of WireImage) and chef Jason Harley (BlackSteel/Parq) hired Spacecraft to turn a vacant space into PICI ENOTECA (212 S. Beverly Dr., BH; 310-274-7424; To Go 310-278-7424) they specified a tile floor inspired by a scene from The Godfather. Harley uses black steel cookware to create thin, crispy pizza crust without a wood-burning oven. He makes virtually everything in house, including the signature Tuscan pici pasta. Each strand is hand rolled and cut into uneven strips, giving it a rustic quality. If you love it, Piero Selvaggio sells it at Primi al Mercato in Santa Monica Place (424-214-6590). Bolognese, puttanesca, and vodka sauces cook for up to three days to intensify their flavors and show off their fresh ingredients. From the short menu, we opted for lemongrass pizza with crispy ginger; artichoke fritters with Boursin cheese; garden plum tomatoes stuffed with creamy burrata, and Chef J’s cheesecake of the day, a standout among homemade gelatos, cannolis and chocolate pudding pistachio tart. Pici already has plans to expand to the adjacent space.

La Jolla’s popular SAMMY'S WOOD FIRED PIZZA & GRILL is open in El Segundo (Plaza El Segundo, 780 S. Sepulveda Blvd.; 310-335-9999). The large space hums at lunchtime and the patio is packed. From the first bite of fresh and creamy lobster bisque to the last drop of a “messy sundae” it’s clear why Sami Ladeki’s popular pizza joint keeps multiplying. Pizza with whole wheat, thin or gluten-free crust and nonfat or vegan mozzarella options, is a draw — get it with brie, truffle oil and wild mushrooms, or pears, prosciutto and gorgonzola — but it’s not the only one. Dishes, mainly small plates, cover the globe from Italy (pappardelle Bolognese, angel hair with shrimp, spinach fettuccine with chicken) to Asia (sashimi, edamame, Thai steak salad, Ahi tartar) and the Middle East (baba ghannouj, hummus, lebni, fattoush, tabouli), all with California flair. After all, where else would you find Mongolian shredded duck quesadilla in a pizzeria? 

TASTE OF ITALY happens at downtown’s Italian American Museum on Saturday, October 1st. There will be treats from Italian and Italian American restaurants, wines and culinary specialties, plus live entertainment, special guests, demos and a silent auction. The Italian Hall is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is the oldest remaining structure from Los Angeles’ little Italy. Info: 213-485-8432

The ideal finale to a great meal is to relax with a glass of AVERNA AMARO, the most popular Italian digestivo, first developed by Benedictine Monks and based on a combination of herbs, flowers, dried spices and licorice. The all-natural herbal ingredients blend together smoothly for a perfect balance of bitter, sweet and citrus flavors that tastes delicious and relaxes the digestive system. We like to set it off with nothing but a slice of lemon. 

QUEBEC IN HOLLYWOOD If you thought Canada was only about maple syrup, a couple a great visiting Montreal chefs are here to open your eyes. September 10-17 Chef Jean-Pierre Curtat from Restaurant Nuances will cook at Hollywood & Highland’s The Grill. His menu will include a fascinating “caviar” made from apples and cilantro; roasted magret duck; and stuffed roast potato cannelloni. At Public Kitchen & Bar at The Roosevelt Hotel Chef Laurent Godbout, from L’Autre Version cook Quebecois-style turnip open ravioli; crab salad; braised pork belly; and caramelized pear bread pudding. The chef also has a boutique food store which highlights maple vinegar, Parmesan oil and blueberry maple syrup under the label Les Saveurs de L’Epicier. There will be a film festival at the Egyptian Theatre, a fashion show, gallery exhibitions and more in and around Hollywood, culminating with the premiere of Cirque du Soleil’s IRIS at the Kodak Theatre. Info:  www.Quebecinhollywood.com .

Another visiting chef was MARCO PIERRE WHITE, the youngest chef ever to win three Michelin stars. He mentored Mario Batali, Gordon Ramsey, and Curtis Stone be- fore stepping out of the kitchen and today he owns such legendary London restaurants as the Criterion, Mirabelle, L'Escargot, Quo Basis, and Luciano. We set out to discover his biggest cooking secret. What we learned: he loves making simple dishes for family and friends; he is a master at preparing ingredients and adding flavor; he knows how to make complicated, from-scratch recipes as easily as toast. And what’s his secret? KNORR STOCK, which he has used in his restaurant kitchens for more than 30 years, not only to make stock, but also because he feels the cubes season better than just salt and pepper. Actually, finding this out wasn’t too difficult because since 2006, he has become their brand ambassador, promoting good cooking made simple in the home.

Just follow the aromas wafting from the outdoor cooker at AMERICAN FARM- HOUSE TAVERN & DINING HALL (924 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach; 310-376-8044) to know what you want to eat. Owner Orlando Novoa, a trained chef, comes from Santa Maria, where California cowboys have been barbecuing meat over turnspits fueled by Red Oak since the mid-19th century. That’s where he learned to use corn, peppers and tomatoes to create clean, powerful flavors without resorting to heavy, sugary sauces. No one leaves hungry after a meal of Farmhouse Stew made with smoky Cattleman’s beans and Santa Maria-style salsa, blended to taste; a butter lettuce wedge with housemade dressing, grilled garlic bread and an after dinner liqueur or a scoop of ice cream. In between, choose among such entrees as beef tri tips, rock Cornish game hen or salmon, each served with appropriate veggies. Accompany your meal with handmade cocktails, complementary Central Coast wines or craft beer. The new fall menu will add bone-in prime rib, duck, quail and handmade pies.

THE YARD (119 Broadway, Santa Monica; 310-395-6037) gastropub serves American tapas with Farmers Market fresh specials created by chef Chris “CJ” Jacobson (“Top Chef”). Service is congenial but substitutions and modifications are “politely declined.'' This serious chef started as a line cook at Campanile. Depending on the season he may feature grilled skirt steak with horseradish crème fraîche and grilled grapes; Carolina spareribs with cabbage; cabbage slaw-topped fish tacos on pliable tortillas; beet salad; macaroni and cheese; sweet, crunchy pigs' ear; pulled- pork sliders; and fresh-fruit based desserts. There are artisan beers on tap, boutique wines by the glass, and a market-fresh seasonal cocktail list by mixologist Blake Landis. Come for the live music, DJs, film screenings and art, and daily happy hours that feature $3 beers and $5 margaritas. Wednesdays: Special Wine and Beer Tastings with Food Pairings from Chef CJ; Thursdays: The Big Cheese, melted cheese dishes with weekly wine specials. Late night menu served until 1am. Open Monday through Sunday from 5pm-2am, Sunday 11am-3pm.

Owner Bob Lynn’s THE MISFIT  (225 Santa Monica Blvd, SM; 310-656-9800), in the Clock Tower Building, offers wines, craft beers, signature cocktails, and punch by the glass or bowl. Handpainted nudes romp above the room-length bar and a circular staircase leads to a collection of post-Prohibition cocktail shakers. Come for the Mon- day through Friday Happy Hours, the late night menu, and $12 bottomless mimosas at weekend brunch, where most dishes top out at $13. Chef Bruce Kalman cooks up the late, great Edna Lewis’ famous dixie fried iron skillet chicken; French onion soup in homemade chicken broth; asparagus, lemon, Parmesan-Reggiano cheese and poached organic egg salad; and stuffed piquillo peppers with Drake goat cheese and pistachios. Kalman uses tasty, organic, grass fed Paso prime beef for strip steak, sliders, and juicy burgers with La Quercia pancetta, Gruyere, arugula and sweet tomato jam. He caters to vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free diets with options like Weiser Farm little baker potatoes, roasted French sea salt and crème fraîche, and brown rice pasta mac ‘n’ cheese. Most important, he caters to his patrons with mischief and merry making.

After a quarter century manning the stoves at The Ivy, Jose Prado has partnered with his children, hostess Lupe Prado Sanchez and chef Joe Prado at COCINA PRIMAVERA (9111 W Olympic Blvd, Beverly Hills; 310-550-7834). There are no paparazzi to block the entrance to this casual neighborhood spot because the star attraction is California cuisine with Latin American flavors, things like a terrific tortilla soup, oven roasted white fish, grilled salmon in a spicy black pepper sauce and fresh sautéed shrimp in garlic butter sauce. Popular sides are black beans and yellow rice or pineapple and plantains. Happy hour runs Mon-Fri, 4-9pm and features $3 sweet corn tamales and $4 lagers.

The 44th annual ALPINE VILLAGE OK- TOBERFEST, chosen by USA Today as one of the best in the world, takes place weekends from Sept. 9 to Oct. 23 (Alpine Village, I-110 South to Exit 8, Torrance Blvd; 310-327-4384). Chef Marko Penich’s German favorites include pork chops, bratwurst, chicken cordon bleu, potato pierogi, Oma’s apple strudel and huge mugs of Paulaner Bier flown in fresh from Munich. Let ze gut times rrroooolll!

Following KCRW’s Pie Contest on September 18 from 2-4 p.m., RAY’S AND STARK BAR (LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., LA; 323-857-6180) will offer a custom Pie Cocktail by Barsmith Michel Dozois ($10) and a Prix Fixe dinner ($35+tt) by Executive Chef Kris Morningstar.  

September 25, City Hearts celebrates their 11th Annual MALIBU FAMILY WINES HARVEST & CRUSH EVENT at Saddlerock Ranch in Malibu: www.cityhearts.org.  ▼